Tokyo
Suetomi
末冨
Three years after the closing of the beloved Kasumicho Suetomi, chef Yasuo Suetomi moved to a new stage and opened Suetomi. The sophisticated and unassuming space that gathers the finest is met by a variety of delightful dishes, echoing the personality of the owner himself. The restaurant provides a gratifying experience of pure immersion into the masterful cuisine, which has been further perfected by his refined skills and vision.
Although the address reads Shibuya, the Japanese restaurant is located in a quiet corner that is perhaps not accessed without a specific purpose. The magnificent signboard of Suetomi used as a guide to finding the place is made by Masatake Fukumori, the 7th generation of the Tsuchiraku kiln from Iga Marubashira. He has been a friend of 20 years and a great source of influence for the chef. Upon opening the door, the first thing that pops into the eyes is an artwork made with Japanese paper by Lee Ufan. The white piece of the Wind series on the wall sets a calming tone for the dining experience that is about to begin.
The high ceilings and white-based flow lines continue straight into the back, adding further to the excitement. On the other side of the paper screen, there are 6 seats at the counter. Japanese flowers reminiscent of the four seasons, such as the mountain hydrangeas, are elegantly arranged on the wall. A stunning single-plate counter made of Kiso cypress sits serenely in the exuberant space. To be able to witness the agile skills of the chef without obstruction is a pure feast to the eyes. Danish antique Kai Kristiansen chairs not only provide comfort but also create a harmony between the traditional beauty of Japan and Scandinavia.
Into the corridor featuring an exposed aggregate finish, there are two private rooms for 4 and 6 people. A highly treasured Kamidai cedar table blends into the latter space. Every material used inside the restaurant is made of something special, such as the door crafted by a Karakami artisan in Kyoto, while the latest equipment is incorporated even in invisible details like the ventilation. Designed by Satoshi Kamohida, the space that has been trimmed off of excess holds a certain type of determination that matches with Suetomi's cuisine.
CUISINE
"It’s the superior quality of the ingredients"
The Omakase course consists of around 10 dishes. When asked about the appeal of the cuisine, he answers it’s the superior quality of the ingredients. Naturally, it’s the chef’s skills and sensibility that bring out their best characteristics. Based on inspirations, they are prepared using a traditional kaiseki cuisine approach with minimal decoration to enhance the depth of the flavors in simple forms.
The tableware that complements the cuisine is also distinctly exquisite. Despite not being mentioned due to the modest nature of Suetomi, there are many spectacular antiques, such as Harumi Baccarat and Ming dynasty pieces. What is truly surprising is that he left behind all the tableware used at Kasumicho Suetomi, and acquired new ones before opening this location.
The list of alcohol is focused on champagnes, white wines, and sake, which are carefully selected to pair with the meal. The chef used to think that it was difficult to match red wines with Japanese cuisine, but now his opinion has leaned towards a more flexible view, letting customers bring their own if so they wish.
While it already feels like hospitality in perfection, Suetomi has been continuing to explore the most suitable dishes for the new space since its opening in April 2021, which stimulates one’s curiosity for the changes that may occur in the future.
A synonym for the summer, it is offered in the second half of the course. Pike conger from Awaji island is served with ponzu made with new onions also from Awaji. The dashi is prepared by infusing kelp in cold water and combining it with pike conger bone broth.
A refreshing dessert that uses a whole Konatsu, citrus from Kochi prefecture evocative of the early summer. It has a pleasant taste with a touch of fruit pulp.
A cooling dish that combines sea urchin from Amakusa in Kumamoto prefecture and abalone from Chiba. It is topped with jellied Sudachi citrus as a finishing touch.
Horsehair crab from Hokkaido and sticky rice from Niigata were served on this day, adorned with a lustrous starchy glaze and Sansho peppercorns as an accent.
INGREDIENTS
In addition to choosing ingredients that are reminiscent of each season, the regions and producers with the absolute highest quality also play as key factors, thanks to the long-standing relationships Suetomi has built over the years. These include summer congers, autumn matsutake mushrooms, soft-shelled turtles, and winter Taiza crabs. In particular, Taiza crabs are provided by his friend who is one of the few fishermen at Taiza Port on the Tango Peninsula in Kyoto, which enables him to offer the finest quality to the guests.
The kelp used in the dashi has been thoroughly aged in the storehouse of the long-established maker "Okui Kaiseidou" in Fukui Prefecture. Moreover, the rice is an original blend by Hachidaime Gihey in Gion, Kyoto.
CHEF
Yasuo Suetomi
In 2006, he opened Kasumicho Suetomi that bears his name in Nishi-Azabu, and it has since become a beloved restaurant with many fans. He decided to close the restaurant at the end of March 2018, considering the next step. He handed it over to his disciple and the right arm Tomoaki Yamagami, who subsequently set it up as Kasumicho Yamagami. The specialty dish of roasted soft-shelled turtle inherited from his master continues to be on the menu.
Suetomi has many overseas friends as a result of his eager participation at culinary fairs all over the world. He also considered a location outside of Japan for the new restaurant, but as he was able to find a property in Tokyo, he went ahead and opened it in April 2021. He has then received welcoming messages from many of his regular customers, which reminded him of how much he loved his work. As a chef, the most important value for him is gratitude and he acknowledges that without the ingredients, producers, guests, and all the people involved in opening the new restaurant, he would not be where he is today.
He is an epicurean in his private life and regularly ventures to many establishments regardless of the location and the cuisine. He also values the time he spends with his family on holidays, as he is a parent to two small children.
VISION
With his intention to build a firm foundation for the new restaurant, Suetomi dedicates himself to developing a distinctive style of cuisine every day from morning till midnight. He also comments rather humbly that he would like to train the younger generations to help them become successful, as he has done so at the previous restaurant with his successor Yamagami. Additionally, he hopes to continue his active participation at the overseas culinary fairs, using them as an opportunity to promote Japanese cuisine.
ART
The simple interior of the restaurant is decorated with artworks that represent contemporary art, and Lee Ufan's Wind series is the first to welcome guests upon entering the space. It is a pure white piece made of Japanese paper that holds an outstanding presence.
The wall of the private room in the back is adorned with the work of Mt. Fuji by Yayoi Kusama. While Suetomi modestly remarks that it's a small piece he bought a long time ago, it provides a great impact and a contrast, creating a perfect harmony within the space. More artworks are displayed in the corridor and the other private room, which further embody Suetomi’s discreet nature and values for authenticity. It is indeed a pleasant surprise to encounter rare pieces of art upon a visit to a restaurant in search of gastronomy.
Course
- The price includes our booking fee of ￥8,000
- The price includes our booking fee of ￥8,000
- The price includes our booking fee of ￥8,000
- The price includes our booking fee of ￥8,000
- The price includes our booking fee of ￥8,000
- The price includes our booking fee of ￥8,000
- The price includes our booking fee of ￥8,000
- The price includes our booking fee of ￥8,000
Tokyo
Suetomi
末冨
- GENRE
- Kaiseki, Aoyama
- ADDRESS
-
We will send you the address only after the booking is confirmed., Aoyama
- OPEN
- 6-8:30PM (LO)
- CLOSED
- Sunday and holidays
- URL
- NA
- PHONE
- NA
