Nagano
Kappo Shinsuke
割烹 しんすけ
A beacon among authentic counter restaurants – a waning style – Kappo Shinsuke is all about premium ingredients in simple preparations that strip away superfluous elements and garnishes, served straight from the chef’s hands to guests. The comfortable atmosphere created by the mother-son team puts guests at ease, allowing them to delight in exquisite flavors and the wonders of Japanese hospitality.
Right near the white walls of Nagoya's former castle town district, Kappo Shinsuke opened its doors in 2012 on the corner of a quiet residential neighborhood. Local gourmands know well this establishment run by a force in the culinary world who trained at Kyoto's renowned kappo restaurant Masuda, whose owner prided himself on serving delicious dishes to guests who truly understand flavor. Chef Shinsuke Ota carries on that spirit, securing the best ingredients each season and showcasing the best they have to offer as sashimi, tempura, grilled foods, hot pots, and other simply delicious creations.
One of the restaurant's most considerable charms is the dialogue between the chef son and service staff mother, who instantly bursts the often-uncomfortable stiffness of kappo dining with her warm, gentle style. While Chef Ota’s cuisine is clearly a hit, his mother has her fair share of fans who come time and again to enjoy heartwarming hospitality.
CUISINE
Simple and best ingredients
In Chef Ota’s cuisine, which builds on his learning at Masuda, flavor is paramount: use only the best ingredients and do very little to them. The omakase course has a distinct seafood focus with many simple creations and unique ingredients like soft shell turtle and wild duck. It typically includes three to four types each of sashimi and tempura, a grilled dish, a refreshing vinegar dish, mackerel sushi, and Masuda-style curry. Guests are sometimes even lucky enough to choose their closing dish, which is often some delectable noodle creation. Ota approaches each seafood item and searches for its sweet spot in determining preparation, with some sashimi served fresh and others aged, but always only sliced immediately before service. Be the dishes fried or grilled; all are served like at a sushi restaurant, straight from the chef’s hands to your plate the instant they are ready.
Kobakogani crabs arrive direct from Echizen and other ports on the Japan Sea and, after being briefly boiled, are broken down into easy-to-eat pieces. Sashimi of yaitogatsuo bonito from the Goto Islands archipelago of Nagasaki has beautiful, sumptuous fat that helps the fish earn its place right behind honmaguro bluefin tuna in the exquisite fish rankings. White tilefish sashimi, also from the Goto Islands, is rested for ten days after delivery, aged to perfection, then sliced and served. Different parts of Nagasaki or Shizuoka soft shell turtle can be devoured in hot pot, deep-fried, or chargrilled creations – one specialty being soft-shell turtle in a glossy teriyaki sauce made from soy sauce, mirin, and sake. Kisu Japanese whiting fish arrives super fresh because of the restaurant's proximity to Mikawa Bay, where it is caught. It is served as tempura along with tempura of skin-on amadai tilefish.
INGREDIENTS
At Kappo Shinsuke, no effort is spared to obtain the best ingredients at peak freshness to cook up simply delicious cuisine. Egg cockles; kurumaebi prawns; mehikari fish, sometimes called big-eyed greeneye in English; and the tempura favorite kisu, or Japanese whiting, are supplied fresh to the restaurant from Mikawa Bay in Aichi Prefecture. Bonito, sea bream, and other excellent fish varieties come from the Goto Islands in Nagasaki Prefecture. The chef uses seasonal vegetables from the best region at each moment in time and flavors them with carefully selected seasonings and oils from around Japan. He is incredibly proud of the water and wild mountain vegetables from his native Takayama.
To complement the cuisine, local Japanese beverages include sake and whiskey, and the drinks collection extends into champagnes and wines, mainly from France.
CHEF
Shinsuke Ota
PRODUCE
Wild mountain vegetables like yomogi (mugwort), tsukimiso (evening primrose), and fukinoto (butterbur shoots) are shipped directly to the restaurant after being picked in the mountains of Chef Ota’s native Hida Takayama. Their supreme quality is thanks to the trained eyes of Ota's father and brother, who have been running the family soba business for many years. At Kappo Shinsuke, they are served as tempura or in different dressings to convey their unique bitterness and wonderful aromas. Another exquisite ingredient is colvert or mallard ducks, not shot but caught in traps in the rice paddies of Niigata Prefecture. The flesh has no unpleasant odors thanks to the skillful bloodletting techniques of hunters. And grilled with only a sprinkling of salt and pepper, the dish offers an opportunity for guests to enjoy the distinctive flavor of wild game.
Course
- The price includes our booking fee of ¥8,000
- The price includes our booking fee of ¥8,000