“Start with tuna and end with tuna” is the motto at Edomae Sushi Hanabusa. The fatty tuna is served as the first course, followed by the parade of seasonal fish from Tokyo Bay and their signature Tekka-maki, or tuna roll. The roll is of classic style and large in size. With the perfect balance of vinegar, tuna, wasabi and seaweed, every bite melts gently in your month.

“Many of our regular customers come back because they can’t forget our Tekka-maki,” the chef says. “When they see a photo of it on social media, they can’t resist the urge.” As you can watch closely over the open counter, Nakajima’s nigiris are molded into beautiful fan-shapes, a technique he learned by watching his masters at Miyako Sushi. As a reminder to himself, he keeps a little fan from Kyoto’s Yasaka Shrine inside the counter.

Vinegar plays an important role in Edomae-sushi as it is used to flavor the rice and marinate the fish. For the rice, he uses only red vinegar and salt to bring out the sweetness of the grains. Different vinegars are used to prepare different fish. As preservation is not as important as it was during the Edo period, the sushi uses less salt and vinegar compared to the original methods.

“While respecting old techniques, it’s important to adapt and evolve with the times,” he says. “This is how I’m creating the taste of Hanabusa.” The master chef pours a lot of time into the preparation, an essential aspect of Edomae-style sushi. By applying techniques that suit each ingredient, it enhances the compatibility with the rice and further brings out the umami. Tuna zuke is marinated for as long as one to two months to deepen its rich flavor.

The way you cut the fish is also important. Taking different kinds of squid for example, golden cuttlefish, or ink squid, is prepared with tiny straight slits, while the bigfin reef squid is softened by making criss cross lines with a knife. They both melt delicately in the mouth because of the work done.

The large piece of conger eel is so soft and flavorful that you can easily finish it despite its size. You can season it to your preference with tsume or nikiri sauces or just salt. Homemade shiokara, or fermented squid, has a surprisingly mild and gentle flavor.

The piece of fatty tuna is simply divine both in appearance and flavor. The day’s catch is a 135-kg fish caught off the coast of Minmaya in Aomori Prefecture. Sumiika, or golden cuttlefish, has a wonderfully rich and creamy texture thanks to the careful knife work.

Kohada, or gizzard shad, is only lightly cured even though the traditional method calls for a strong flavoring of vinegar and salt. The snapper is served with broiled skin, adding a smoky aroma and interesting texture. The shrimp is packed with the flavor of the sea with a smooth finish.

INGREDIENTS
The fish used at Edomae Sushi Hanabusa mainly comes from the shores off Tokyo Bay. Nakajima also strives to procure not only the typical Edomae-style fish but the best fish available at that time from different regions. The tuna is procured from Hicho, a renowned wholesaler in Toyosu, with whom the chef has a long standing relationship.

The wasabi is sourced directly from Izu Prefecture, where they grow the plants in the fresh spring water of Mt. Amagi. It is considered to be the best variety of wasabi, with a good balance of stickiness, sweetness, spiciness, flavor and color. The rice used is aged rice.