Tokyo
Takumi Sushi Owana
匠鮨おわな
Trained under master chef of renowned Sushi Sho, Chef Kenji Oana offers an exquisite Edomae-style sushi by adding his own culinary touch. Alternating between beautiful small plates and sushi made with flavorful red or white rice, starred Takumi Sushi Owana is a delightful experience from start to finish.
Owned by Kenji Oana, a Sushi Sho protégé, Takumi Sushi Owana has been luring gourmands since its opening in 2017. Located by Ebisu Station in central Tokyo, the restaurant welcomes guests with its simple but elegant setting. A crisp noren curtain hangs over its entrance that matches the color of the season.
The restaurant sign presents the chef’s family crest and its name, which borrows a character from Sushi Sho, a proof of the recognition from his mentor Keiji Nakazawa. Nakazawa is among Japan's leading sushi chefs who has built a global following with top-rated Sushi Sho in Ritz Carlton Waikiki as well as a number of branches across Japan.
The restaurant’s elegant interior creates an inviting atmosphere. The main dining room is tasteful and spacious with a beautiful hinoki (Japanese cypress) counter that seats 8 guests. The room is set with traditional details like shoji windows and wooden dividers. There is also a private room available for small groups and families.
“There aren’t enough high-end restaurants where you can bring your children, so I wanted to make sure families are welcome here,” the chef says.
Each table setting is set with a gorgeous rectangular serving plate that has a lip that folds over the counter. The traditional ceramics are made by artist Kazuji Sato from Gifu Prefecture. Every piece is original with the green copper glaze adding a unique pattern and texture.
The restaurant offers more than 15 vintages of selected sake that pair beautifully with sushi. They also offer a selection of champagnes and white wines.
CUISINE
A Sushi Sho protégé
Alternating between small dishes and sushi, an evening at Takumi Sushi Owana flows with a rhythm. As his trademark, Oana uses two kinds of rice, selecting between red rice and white rice for each topping. Enjoy following his skillful finger strokes as he prepares each dish in front of your eyes.
The omakase menu is a classic Edomae-style sushi. Passing on the craft he internalized during his apprenticeship at Sushi Sho, Oana shapes the sushi into delicate morsels with the rice gently tucked under the fish. The knife work is a work of craftsmanship with every slit designed specifically for the day’s fish. The nikiri, or brush-on sweet soy sauce, is mild and gentle in flavor.
The small dishes are simple in concept but carefully prepared and beautifully presented. The plates bring out the colors and flavors of the season.
“I create dishes that I would want to eat myself,” he says as he prepares his art-like dishes.
The evening begins with a clear shijimi clam soup to open up your taste buds, followed by a plate of white shrimp that looks like a French appetizer at a glance. The kombu-infused shrimp meat is sliced and mounted into a small bundle and drizzled with rich egg yolk soy sauce.
Marinated mackerel is flavored with perfect sourness. The sweetness of the fat is enhanced by the freshness of myoga, green onions and needle-thin ginger. Horse mackerel is lightly cured with salt for just 5-6 minutes before it’s shaped with beautiful pleats and mounted on top of white sushi rice.
The otoro fatty tuna looks too delicious to eat with the strokes of marbled fat on the glistening pink flesh. Today’s catch comes from a 110-kg fish caught off Shiogama. Sujiko is served in a sake glass with a heap of juicy roe covering the rice.
To bring out the greatest flavor, gizzard shad is marinated twice with red vinegar and white vinegar. The deep criss-crossed slits add a wonderful texture.
INGREDIENTS
The fish is sourced daily, mainly from the Toyosu fish market. The chef likes to procure seasonal ingredients like crab, shrimp, and monkfish liver directly from producers in Hokkaido. He likes to make sure he checks the quality of the produce with his own eyes.
The high quality tuna are sourced from Toyosu’s top retailer Yamayuki. Of their catches, he prefers the flavor of fish that are slightly smaller that weigh less than 150 kg.
For the sushi rice, he uses specially selected sushi-grade rice produced in Miyagi called Gin-bozu Ichizoku. Wasabi comes from Utsurogi in rural Shizuoka Prefecture, known as the birthplace of wasabi.
CHEF
Kenji Oana
RICE
One of the reasons that makes the sushi here unique is that they offer two different kinds of rice. Depending on the type of the fish, Oana selects from either of the red or white sushi rice he has prepared using a blend of vinegars. The red rice has a vibrant tone, perfect for potent flavors like tuna and gizzard shad. The lighter white rice complements delicate sushi like white fish and squid. The rice comes from an aged crop of Gin-bozu Ichizoku in Miyagi Prefecture, selected specifically for sushi.
Course
- The price includes our booking fee of ¥8,000
- The price includes our booking fee of ¥8,000
- The price includes our booking fee of ¥8,000
- The price includes our booking fee of ¥8,000