Kyoto

Kikunoi Sushi Ao

菊乃井　鮨　青

Tucked away in an atmospheric alley in Kyoto’s historic district, Sushi Ao invites guests to experience the essence of traditional Japanese culture. Produced by Kikunoi, the celebrated Kyoto restaurant with over 100 years of history, Sushi Ao’s cuisine weaves in traditional kaiseki dishes between courses of sushi. Guests also come to savor the sight of exquisite antique crockery and rare works of Rosanjin used throughout the meal.

Much awaited by guests of Kikunoi, Sushi Ao opened in June 2024 to offer a new kind of Kyoto-style sushi. Sharing the space with its sister restaurant, Niku Unshu, the building on the stone-paved Ishibe-koji used to house a traditional Japanese inn that neighbored many tea houses. The stunning renovated property is the work of Sotoji Nakamura, a Kyoto-based master of sukiya-style carpentry. The details of their craftsmanship are found in every corner, from the wooden pavement in the entryway to the colorful ceramic tiles in the dining area.

"We want our guests to enjoy sushi that is unique to our restaurant,” says Yoshihiro Murata, the present and third generation chef of Kikunoi. “Instead of just simple appetizers, we serve proper Japanese cuisine in between sushi.”

Alternating between kaiseki dishes and classic sushi, the cuisine at Sushi Ao brings about the flavors of the seasons. Head Chef Eiki Abe curates a sophisticated omakase menu that is built on aesthetics he’s built over 15 years at the award-winning Kikunoi.

Guests come here not only to enjoy the cuisine but the collection of crockery and artwork that Murata’s family has accumulated over generations. Their collection of Kitaoji Rosanjin includes pieces such as the set of five Nichigetsu (sun and moon) bowls that are extremely rare to come by. From antique Baccarat to Wajima lacquerware, the exquisite tableware steals your eyes as much as the cuisine they carry.

Sushi produced by Kikunoi

Inheriting Kikunoi’s artistry, Sushi Ao’s omakase menu weaves in traditional kaiseki dishes with seasonal sushi. Served on antique Baccarat, cold appetizers start the meal with flavors of the season. For the first dish, green plums are boiled until soft and tossed with cold hairy crab jelly and sprinkles of shiso flowers.

Ogawa Karasumi is a cherished Kikunoi recipe that’s been passed down from Murata’s grandfather. Karasumi, or salted mullet roe, is wrapped in squid and marinated in mirin koji for a deep flavor. It’s a perfect accompaniment for sake that takes time and effort to make.

Warm hamo sashimi is a beautiful Kyoto dish to remember. The chef finely slices the flesh and bones in front of the guests and blanches the pieces quickly in a flavorful broth. The soft sashimi is served warm with pickled plum.

Served in Wajima lacquer bowls, the day’s soup is a clear broth with conger eel tofu. The soup is served with tofu made of conger eel meat and soy milk, and a piece of grilled Densuke conger eel. Garnished with thinly sliced winter melon and Japanese peppercorns, every sip fills your stomach with umami.

At Sushi Ao, the nigiri are served in Edomae style and served on gorgeous Rosanjin plates. The sushi pieces are brushed with soy sauce or topped with different condiments such as salt or sudachi citrus that best match the fish. Richer fish like tuna are served with red vinegar rice, while lighter fish such as sea bream are paired with rice vinegar rice.

Using Kikunoi’s network of top-quality suppliers, Abe can select from a wide variety of fish toppings, including large-sized fish like butterfish, Spanish mackerel and yellowtail that are not very common in classic Edomae-style sushi.

The fatty chutoro drapes over the oval-shaped red vinegar rice. Finely slit with meticulous knifework, the fish melts away in your mouth with a rich aroma. Isaki, or chicken grunt, is a beautiful white fish with a delicate and light flavor. The summer fish is served with rice vinegar.

INGREDIENTS
From fresh fish to seasonal vegetables, Sushi Ao sources high-quality ingredients from Kikunoi’s network of trusted suppliers. Seafood is delivered directly from fishing ports, while vegetables are sent from farmers all over the country. The flavors of the ingredients speak for the quality of the producers themselves.

The restaurant also offers a selection of fine wines and sake that pair beautifully with Japanese cuisine. Niku Unshu, its sister restaurant on the second floor, has an impressive cellar of French wines and champagne.

CHEF

Eiki Abe

Chef Eiki Abe was born in Sendai in 1989. After graduating from culinary school, he joined Akasaka Kikunoi to begin his apprenticeship in traditional Japanese cuisine. Over the next 15 years, he continued to polish his skills and was named the sous chef of the restaurant. In preparation to head Sushi Ao, he went to train at sushi restaurants owned by former Kikunoi chefs to expand his expertise.

"I know the techniques of Japanese cuisine, but sushi is something else,” he explains. “There was a lot to learn like how to prepare the rice, handle the fish and prepare the toppings.”

He moved to Kyoto when he was selected as the head chef of Sushi Ao. He says he wants to serve a unique style of sushi by combining Edomae-style techniques and traditional Japanese cuisine. "I’ve always lived in Tokyo so I’m looking forward to getting to know and appreciate Kyoto.”

VISION
Sushi Ao aims to offer its own Kyoto-style sushi by incorporating elements from Kikunoi’s established kaiseki cuisine. Set in an atmospheric alley in Higashiyama, it hopes to provide the guests with an enchanting experience of Japanese culture.

ROSANJIN

Kitaoji Rosanjin is said to be one of Japan’s greatest artists with his work ranging from ceramics, calligraphy, painting and woodwork. A passionate gourmand, he also created many collections of tableware, designed to bring out the beauty of the cuisine. Over generations, Kikunoi’s Murata family has accumulated his crockery, including a number of rare pieces like the Oribe flat plates displayed at Sushi Ao. Sushi is served piece by piece onto a collection of Rosanjin’s Konoha Hiramuki, or leaf-motif plates. The colors and patterns are different for each piece, making it a unique experience for every guest. The chopstick rests and many of the serving dishes are also made by the celebrated artist. The beautiful calligraphy behind the counter is also a work of Rosanjin, reminding us of the beauty in the moment. The Zen teaching reads; “When the clouds go away, lush green mountains appear. You are fine just the way you are."