Kyoto

Kikunoi Wagyu Unshu

菊乃井　肉懐石　雲収

A refined Japanese-style meat restaurant curated by Kikunoi, the celebrated Kyoto kaiseki restaurant with over 100 years of history. Located inside a renovated inn in the city’s historic district, Niku Unshu offers an omakase meal of delicate Japanese flavors and charcoal-grilled wagyu Chateaubriand steak. The wine cellar stocks fine vintages that pair marvelously with the cuisine.

Niku Unshu opened in June 2024 in the atmospheric Ishibe-koji alley in Higashiyama, just south of Yasaka Shrine. Sharing the space with its sister restaurant Sushi Ao, the building used to house an old inn that neighbored many tea houses. The renovated property is the work of Sotoji Nakamura, a Kyoto-based master of sukiya-style carpentry. Inside the beautiful space, guests are invited to take a seat at the large counter to savor the meal.

"We wanted to offer a meat cuisine that was traditionally Japanese,” says Yoshihiro Murata, the present and third generation chef of Kikunoi. From the superb cuisine to the selection of tableware, every detail at his new restaurant reflects his grander vision to offer an exceptional Kyoto-style experience for visiting guests.

A refined Japanese-style meat restaurant curated by Kikunoi

Led by Head Chef Asuka Tao, Niku Unshu offers their guests an experience that is unique to Kyoto’s sophisticated culinary scene. Starting with an appetizer, the omakase menu serves traditional dishes such as sashimi and soup before its signature charcoal-grilled Chateaubriand steak. Catering to the flavors of the season, every dish is prepared with outstanding craftsmanship and plated on stunning crockery.

The junsai and summer vegetable appetizer starts the meal with an elegant flavor. Junsai, a Japanese vegetable coated in transparent jelly, is mixed with diced summer vegetables in a clear tomato-infused water. Served in a beautiful Baccarat glass, the vegetables look like colorful gems.

The day’s sashimi is sea bream kobujime. Cured in kombu, the fresh fish is full of umami. Corn and wasabi sorbet is served as a palate cleanser before the meat dish. The sweetness of the corn and the fragrance of the wasabi leave a refreshing taste in your mouth.

The charcoal-grilled wagyu Chateaubriand is a dish to remember. Using the best cut of Japanese beef available for the season, the marbled meat is put on skewers and placed over the grill. Cooked slowly and carefully, the outside is crisp and golden while the inside remains tender and juicy. Sliced right in front of the guests, the perfectly seared steak is served on its own to highlight its full and rich flavor.

Rice is freshly cooked for every guest in a small clay pot. A bowl of fluffy rice is served with homemade pickles of seasonal vegetables such as cucumber and radish. The warm clam and Naruto seaweed soup seeps through your stomach.

The dessert is anmitsu, a traditional Japanese dessert, from Kikunoi. Served in a small bamboo cup, red beans, shiratama rice cakes and fruits are mixed together in a perfect combination.

INGREDIENTS
Niku Unshu sources high-quality ingredients from Kikunoi’s network of trusted suppliers. The chef works closely with the butcher to select the best cuts of Japanese wagyu such as Kagoshima or Hida beef. Seafood is delivered directly from fishing ports, while vegetables come from farmers all over the country. The flavors of the ingredients speak for the quality of the producers themselves.

The selection of wines and sake is designed to pair well with the charcoal-grilled steak. Many of the wines come from Burgundy and Bordeaux, including some rare and special vintages. The chef can help you choose your favorite wine.

CHEF

Asuka Tao

Asuka Tao was born in Osaka Prefecture in 1991. He began working part-time at a restaurant at the age of 15 and decided to pursue a culinary career. He went on to join a major restaurant where he not only learned Japanese cuisine but also fusion recipes. He opened his own restaurant in Osaka in 2019 where the chef of Kikunoi used to be a regular customer. Recognized for his talent, Kikunoi invited Tao to head the opening of Niku Unshu.

Tao began by visiting beef producers in areas such as Miyazaki Prefecture to learn about the different breeds and their characteristics. He also worked on his grilling technique that worked best for steaks. As head chef, his passion is to create memorable experiences for his guests with his cuisine and hospitality.

"I simply want to share the incredible flavor of wagyu beef with more people,” he says.

VISION
"Unlike places that only serve beef, I wanted to create a restaurant that brought together authentic Japanese cuisine and wagyu steak," says Kikunoi’s Murata. The cuisine at Niku Unshu is elegant and tasteful, starting with delicate Japanese flavors of Kikunoi. The wagyu Chateaubriand is grilled over charcoal for a light finish. The meal wraps up with a bowl of fluffy white rice. We aim to be a Japanese beef restaurant that people haven’t experienced before, he says.

WINE

Located next to the dining area, the wine cellar stocks an impressive collection of over 200 bottles. From high-end Champagne to rare Burgundy vintages, the list would impress any wine lover. Some of the special bottles include Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s La Tache and Echézeaux, as well as wines from Denis Mortet and George Roumier. The chef says he would like to continue collecting wines that bring out the flavor of the meat.