Tokyo

Sushi Riku

鮨　陸

Inheriting the craft of two sushi masters, Riku Toda embarks on a new chapter at his very own storefront—Sushi Riku. His cuisine reflects his profound appreciation for Japanese culture, which deepened during his years of working abroad. Built on classic Edomae traditions, his sushi is clean and refined in flavor, made to bring out the umami of the fresh toppings.

Sushi Riku opened in September 2024 in the international neighborhood of Hiroo. Despite his young age, the owner chef demonstrates exceptional knowledge, which he cultivated during his apprenticeships at Sushi Mizutani and Sushi Sugita, both among the most appraised sushi restaurants in Japan. With services available in English and Chinese, he hopes his restaurant will grow to become a favorite for guests from all over the world.

As you step inside the modern glass-doored building, you will find yourself in a quiet and peaceful space. A candle-lit path takes you through a beautiful garden planted with pines, maples and cherry trees. The dining room is built using Japanese cedar wood, creating a warm ambiance. The wickerwork ceiling and shoji screens add beautiful traditional details.

“As well as serving delicious food, I wanted to make sure that our guests feel comfortable and enjoy the atmosphere of the restaurant,” the chef says.

The dishes are served using a mix of antique and contemporary crockery. The stunning serving trays are made by Toru Matsuzaki, a lacquerware artist from Tochigi Prefecture. Toda first came across these trays while working at Sushi Sugita. He would dream of getting a set for himself when he owned his own restaurant. The sushi pieces look beautiful against the dark, textured surface.

Inheriting the craft of two sushi masters

Featuring classic Edomae flavors, the seasonal omakase begins with 6 to 7 appetizers followed by 12 to 13 nigiri sushi. Soft-boiled octopus is served slightly warmer than room temperature. He adds just the right amount of heat for the ideal texture and gelatin. The meat is tender and filled with umami from the sea.

A signature recipe passed down from Sugita, the sardine rolls are a delightful bite. Sardines from Hokkaido, pickled ginger and tiny green onions called fugunegi are rolled in roasted seaweed. The pleasant sourness of the fish and the aroma of the grilled seaweed go together beautifully.

The series of appetizers demonstrate Toda’s talent in bringing out the flavors of the season. The monkfish liver is cooked light and fluffy, served with shiitake mushrooms. Shark fin tempura is an exquisite dish where the fins are first simmered in dashi for a deeper umami. Marinated bonito is aromatic and rich in flavor, garnished with chives and ginger.

The sushi rice is made from a blend of aged rice, cooked in a traditional hagama pot and flavored with two types of vinegar. True to his motto that "the rice should never exceed the toppings,” he uses very little sugar in the seasoning. When making sushi, he pushes the thumb of his left hand into the morsel to create a perfect boat shape. The seamless movement of his hands is mesmerizing to watch.

For the best texture and flavor, the shrimp is kept swimming in a tank until right before serving. They are boiled quickly, sliced and made into sushi. Gizzard shad, a classic Edomae topping, is cured to deepen its flavor. Sujiko is salmon roe that is still in its egg sack. You can enjoy its rich flavor.

INGREDIENTS
At Sushi Riku, about half of the fish is shipped directly from suppliers while the rest comes from Toyosu Market. Depending on the fish and the season, Toda selects the best method of procurement.

The rice is a blend of aged rice ordered from Funakubo Shoten in Kiyosumi Shirakawa. Toda works closely with an expert who carefully selects the rice based on the amount of sunlight it receives. The chef likes rice with a rich aroma. Top-grade nori seaweed comes from Ariake.

CHEF

Riku Toda

Riku Toda was born in Tokyo in 1991. To everyone’s surprise, he didn’t like eating raw fish as a child. He recalls having a very sensitive palette. By the time he reached high school, he became increasingly interested in food. He still clearly remembers how moved he was when he tasted the sushi at Sushi Mizutani for the first time. After graduating, he joined the restaurant to begin his apprenticeship. Under Hachiro Mizutani, among the most acclaimed Japanese sushi chefs, Toda internalized the basics of classic Edomae-style sushi.

His next step was to work for Takaaki Sugita, whom Toda admired for his skills and passion for sushi. He continued to polish his technique at Miyako Sushi, which became Sushi Sugita. Later, he went on to expand his experience by going overseas. For about six years, he served sushi at top restaurants in cities such as Bangkok.

“I learned so much from serving guests from different countries,” he says. “It enriched my sense of aesthetics.”

After returning to Japan, he worked on a number of pop-up events before deciding to build his own restaurant. In September 2024, he opened Sushi Riku in Hiroo, using his first name, which many guests know him by.

VISION
Toda wants his restaurant to not only serve delicious sushi but be a place of comfort for the guests. From service to designs, he is committed to offering first-class hospitality.

SAKE

The chef himself selects which sake goes on the day’s menu for the guests to enjoy. He makes sure his selection is well balanced, including some fruity flavors as well as bolder vintages. Some of his favorite sake include Nichi Nichi, Jiko, Aramasa, Ubusuna and Mimurosugi.

The wine list is selected by their sommelier. He pays attention to how the wines balance with the flavors of the food. He likes to serve vintages from Burgundy and Champagne from more than 300 bottles they have in stock.