Tokyo

Sushidokoro Yamato

Name: Lunch @ Sushidokoro Yamato on January 29, 2025
Start: 2025-01-29
Location: Sushidokoro Yamato

鮨処　やまと

Growing up in his father’s restaurant, Yamato Yasui now stands behind his own sushi counter to showcase his garnered craftsmanship. His exquisite cuisine is built on techniques he inherited from Takaaki Sugita of Sushi Sugita and Toru Okuda of Ginza Kojyu, bringing together Edomae-style flavors and classic Japanese dishes. Signature sushi such as the lightly-cured gizzard shad and simmered squid reflect his dedication to the authentic approach.

Founded in 2021, Sushidokoro Yamato is located near Tsukiji Station, where the fish market used to be. The chef took its name from his parent’s restaurant that they’ve been running since the year he was born. Realizing his childhood dream of becoming a sushi master, he devotes his work to honor what he’s been taught and serve his guests a memorable meal.

As you walk under the crisp noren curtain hanging over the entrance, you step inside a classic and tasteful space, with the clay walls and wooden ceiling creating a warm atmosphere. Around the light-colored cypress counter, eight seats are placed at a close distance from the chef so the guests can enjoy watching his graceful movements.

To complement the variety of seasonal flavors, Yasui selects more than a dozen sake to choose from. He favors sake with a good acidic flavor to bring out the flavor of the seafood. Be sure to try a glass of Sushidokoro Yamato, the restaurant’s original sake made by Senkin Brewery in Tochigi Prefecture.

Inherited from Takaaki Sugita

Yasui’s omakase menu weaves plates of seasonal appetizers and nigiri sushi. Using Sugita’s teachings as the foundation, he makes fine adjustments to the sushi based on the day’s ingredients. Aged rice is cooked in a hagama pot and blended with three types of vinegar. He prepares batches of rice at slightly different temperatures for each topping.

“Tuna and prawns go well with slightly warmer rice, while cooler rice match better stronger flavors like horse mackerel and sardines,” he explains “I make my sushi while imagining how they melt away in your mouth.”

The first course is gizzard shad, a dish that tests the chef’s skill. He controls the level of salt based on the condition of the fish, finetunes the marinating time in one-minute increments. and changes the way he cuts. Made carefully to bring out its best flavor each time, the sushi has a great aroma and an elegant flavor with light acidity.

Many guests come back to savor the deep flavors of simmered sushi such as squid and scallop. The squid is marinated in soy sauce, mirin, sugar and sake for a whole day and cooked slowly on low heat. The scallops are also cooked in low-temperature with sugar and soy sauce so they are still rare. The meat falls apart in your mouth.

Kasugo, or young seabream, is lightly cured in kombu for a richer flavor, and served with sudachi citrus and salt. Horse mackerel is pressed onto the rice with ginger and green chives hidden in between. The condiments amplify the fish’s flavor. Baby sardines are cured in vinegar. Softly boiled octopus is cooked with sake, soy sauce, and sugar, and served cold to enjoy the pure flavor.

INGREDIENTS
Yasui says he’s grateful for the relationships he inherited from his years at Sugita, and continues to use the same vendors for his own restaurant. He visits the Toyosu market every morning to check on the day’s catches with his own eyes before purchasing any of his ingredients. The tuna comes from Yunoka, a supplier that works with many top restaurants. The rice is aged Koshihikari rice from Toyama Prefecture.

CHEF

Yamato Yasui

Yamato Yasui was born in Kagawa Prefecture in 1977. He grew up watching his father at his sushi restaurant, and knew as early as when he was in elementary school that he wanted to become a sushi chef. He remembers how he was helping his father at the restaurant by the time he was in middle school.

After graduating from a culinary school in Tokyo, he first chose to master the basics of Japanese cuisine and joined Ginza Kojyu to train for the next four years. It was during that time he had the opportunity to dine at Takaaki Sugita’s former restaurant, Miyako Sushi, and was moved by the experience. When Yasui asked if he could become his apprentice, Sugita offered to welcome him at his new restaurant in Nihonbashi.

At Sushi Sugita, Yasui became the second apprentice there and worked there for the next five years until he became independent in 2021. Even now, he and his fellow apprentices continue a ritual to visit Sugita every New Year. Yasui has also stayed close with his first mentor, Toru Okuda of Ginza Kojyu, who provided great support for Sushidokoro Yamato.

On his days off, Yasui cherishes the little time he gets to spend with his toddler. He also likes to try different sushi and Japanese restaurants.

VISION
Yasui says he is focused on the work that is in front of him every day. He aims to continue improving his craft to eventually become like his mentor, Sugita, whom he respects greatly.

GIFT

Yasui opened Sushidokoro Yamato with Sugita’s full support. The mentor would tag along to look at properties for the new restaurant. He drafted hundreds of calligraphy for the restaurant’s signage. The beautiful fugo basket, which sushi chefs used to keep the rice bowl warm at the right temperature, is also a gift from Sugita. It’s a traditional artifact that is becoming harder to come by due to a shortage of craftsmen.

“When I consulted him about getting a fugo for my new restaurant, Mr. Sugita simply told me that I didn’t have to worry about it,” because he had already gotten one, Yasui recalls the story fondly.