Fukuoka

Sushi Senpachi

Name: Dinner @ Sushi Senpachi on March 07, 2025
Start: 2025-03-07
Location: Sushi Senpachi

鮨　仙八

Honing his craft at celebrated establishments such as Tokimune and Sushi Shin, Chef Takashi Nakahara returns to his family restaurant to carry its historic legacy forward. Now relocated to Fukuoka, Sushi Senpachi presents a blend of rich local bounty and Edomae techniques, creating unforgettable dishes like squid nigiri and small abalone risotto. Served with fine sake pairings, the sushi here is not to be missed during your next visit to Kyushu.

Originally started as a little food stall in 1939, Sushi Senpachi grew as a local sushi restaurant in Kumamoto under the second and third generation owners. Taking over as the fourth generation chef at age 28, Nakahara dedicated himself to refine the cuisine further, leading it to win international recognition as one of the top restaurants in the region.

Since relocating to Fukuoka in 2023, the restaurant continues to impress and grow its gourmet fans. Just a short drive from Hakata Station in a quiet residential neighborhood, its glass-front exterior exudes understated elegance and sophistication. Inside, a beautiful cypress counter stretches across the dining room, set with 12 chairs.

At the current location, Nakahara expanded the kitchen space to enhance his culinary processes as well as better mentor his apprentices. From every seat, guests can enjoy the meticulous artistry of the chef and his team as they prepare the special meal.

A blend of rich local bounty and Edomae techniques

The motto of Sushi Senpachi is simple: “Bring Edomae techniques to life using Kyushu’s fish.” Selecting fresh catches from local bays, Nakahara’s menu offers about six appetizers and 13 pieces of sushi that bring you the flavors of the season. Weaving traditional methods with new ideas, the unique culinary experience offers both great satisfaction and elements of surprise.

The aori-ika (bigfin reef squid) nigiri is a masterpiece that can only be found here. The umami-rich squid is left to rest for about 10 days to bring out the sticky texture and sweetness. The surface of the meat is pounded with a knife until soft and tender. The sushi melts away in your mouth.

A contrast to sweeter flavors in Kyushu cuisine, Nakahara’s vinegared rice offers a sharper acidity that balances perfectly with the Edomae-style toppings. The sushi has a finishing taste that naturally makes you want to drink more sake, he explains.

The omakase menu showcases the best seafood Kyushu has to offer. Renkodai (crimson sea bream) is a fish unique to the region. The skin is lightly cooked using hot water for a cleaner flavor and softer texture. Longtail tuna, a local favorite, is left to sit for 2-3 days and served as sashimi.

Small abalone (tokobushi) risotto is a signature dish Nakahara has perfected over the years. The liver is melted in broth and mixed with vinegared rice, creating a creamy flavor with a hint of acid. Served with sake-steamed small abalone and pickled Japanese scallion, every bite is packed with umami.

Every course is prepared carefully using different techniques, reflecting the chef’s deep understanding of sushi-making. Kohada (gizzard shad) is salted and then vinegared over three days. Halfbeak is caught on the day, simply seasoned with salt, and served fresh. Barracuda is dried overnight and grilled in front of the guests to be served warm.

INGREDIENTS
Sushi Senpachi’s cuisine uses the freshest market finds such as Kyushu’s prized longtail tuna and cured gizzard shad. The seafood is mainly sourced from Nagahama Fish Market, allowing guests to enjoy fish that are unique to the area. "The fish in the bays of Kagoshima and Kumamoto are small in size, while the fish from Kyushu and Miyazaki are large, so we have a nice balance,” Nakahara explains. “Korea is also nearby, so we also get high-quality conger eel and giant clams.”

Tuna is sourced from Yunoka, a famous wholesaler in Toyosu. Depending on the season, some fish are procured from Hokkaido. The Hinohikari rice from Oita Prefecture is small in grain size with a good flavor, making it perfect for Nakahara's sharp vinegared rice. The red vinegar comes from Yokoi Brewery.

CHEF

Takashi Nakahara

Born in Kumamoto in 1982, Takashi Nakahara grew up as the son and grandson of dedicated sushi craftsmen. His father’s disciplined approach instilled a deep respect for tradition, while his grandfather nurtured his palate with an array of sushi delights from a young age.

He began his culinary training at age 18 at Fukuoka’s renowned Tokimune and later moved to Tokyo to join Sushi Shin. His training in Tokyo was transformative for his craftsmanship but it also deepened his appreciation for Kyushu’s incredible seafood, inspiring him to return home to his family restaurant at 28.

When he first took over Sushi Senpachi, he went through some tough times when he had no customers. He began by visiting the local Tazaki Market, known as the "kitchen of Kumamoto," every morning to find the best ingredients with his own eyes. He continued to refine his craft by taking the time and effort to prepare the ingredients carefully. In the coming years, his dedication paid off, leading the restaurant to be recognized as one of the top restaurants in the region.

From his training days to now, he makes it a priority to try all kinds of restaurants across Japan. He hopes to learn about different cuisines and develop his own unique sensibilities. He says he wants to create new possibilities for Sushi Senpachi by combining global and traditional ideas.

“Sushi is an honest craft, where every bite reveals the diner’s true evaluation,” he says.

SAKE

Nakahara’s attention to detail extends to his sake selection, curated together with Kumamoto’s long-established Inomoto Sake Store. The restaurant typically features nine sake varieties, mainly from Kyushu and nearby regions. Some of his favorites include vintages from Hananoka, Kameman, and Chiyonosono breweries. The pairings are thoughtfully chosen to elevate the taste of the seafood, offering a complex harmony of flavors.