Ehime

Kuruma Sushi

くるますし

Born the son of a sushi chef, Kouji Takahira returns to his hometown of Matsuyama to offer a memorable menu using the best local seafood. Made to bring out the peak flavor in each ingredient, his cuisine reflects his craftsmanship he built at top establishments in Tokyo. From the refined Japanese-modern architecture to excellent wine pairing, the experience here reflects his rich imagination in bringing together the old and the new.

Located in the city center of Matsuyama, the capital of Ehime Prefecture in Shikoku, Kurumasushi was founded by Takahira's father in 1976. Beautifully renovated in 2021, the restaurant’s architecture is a contemporary take on a traditional tea house. The iconic exterior pairs black wood and undressed concrete, with a large wooden door set at the center of an angled wall.

The interior is warm and inviting, filled with intricate craftsmanship of local artisans such as bamboo screens and shelves for tea bowls. As guests enter the dining area, the head chef and his father offer a warm welcome. The gorgeous counter, made of Yoshino cypress, is set with just 8 seats. A vase on the wall is decorated with fresh flowers picked from the mountains.

In addition to local sake such as Ishizuchi and Ittoryodan, the restaurant offers delicious sake from around the country such as Aramasa and Kokuryu. Wine is selected by Takahira, also a certified sommelier, with a focus on French wines that pair well with the delicate flavors of sushi.

Made to bring out the peak flavor

Focused on fresh local seafood, Kurumasushi’s omakase brings the flavors of the season. The meal typically consists of six appetizers, followed by 12 nigiri sushi, where each piece is prepared using specific techniques to bring out the peak umami. The sweet egg is always the last course.

The steamed abalone is a delightful appetizer. Caught in nearby waters, the shellfish is cooked slowly for as long as 6 hours. By raising its temperature gradually, the amino acids and sugars build up, making the meat sticky, the chef explains. The abalone is cooked using only its own umami, and served in a rich liver sauce.

The first nigiri is usually white tilefish, caught off the coast of Yamatahama. The fresh fish is salted and left to rest for about a week before being served. The rich umami, fat and sweetness open up the palate for the courses to follow.

Purchased from Ishiji, one of the top tuna wholesalers in Toyosu, the akami of fresh tuna is aromatic and flavorful. Sea bream is sourced from Junichi Fujimoto, a well-known fisherman in Ehime. The fish is raised on shrimp, which you will notice in the rich flavor.

Prepared fresh upon the guests’ arrival, the rice is made in a custom-made hagama pot. The grains are cooked perfectly to have a good firmness on the outside while soft on the inside, and seasoned with a blend of rice vinegar and red vinegar. The hint of red vinegar goes well with stronger flavors such as tuna and yellowtail.

Takahira firmly grasps the rice and shapes it with the seafood. He says he presses the ingredients together to create a sense of unity, while considering the characteristics of each topping. He thinks about the different variables such as the cut, thickness and temperature, to make sure that the flavor of the sushi is at its peak when served.

The chef also pays careful attention to the tempo and order in which the nigiris are served. To keep an enjoyable pace, he likes to alternate between cold and warm toppings. Sea urchin, shrimp and conger eel appear towards the second half of the meal.

INGREDIENTS
The bulk of fresh seafood served at Kurumasushi comes from local seas around Ehime. Depending on the season, Takahira likes to source from ports in Matsuyama, Imabari and Yawatahama. He also explores further out to the seas of Setouchi, Kochi and Tokushima for new finds. In order to get his hands on the best catches, he is in touch daily with the local fisherman, Junichi Fujimoto. Based in Oshima, Fujimoto supplies many top restaurants across Japan with high-quality seafood from Shikoku. The chef says he’s learned a lot from the fisherman, including the variety of local seafood and different fishing techniques.

The tuna is sourced from Ishiji in Toyosu. Takahira’s favorite tuna comes with rich minerals, good aroma, moderate acidity, softness and vivid umami. Even when it comes to tuna, he is always conscious that the level of umami is at its peak. He also sources classic toppings like gizzard shad and cooked clams from established vendors in Toyosu. He uses Tsuyahime rice from Yamagata Prefecture.

CHEF

Kouji Takahira

Kouji Takahira was born in Ehime Prefecture in 1990 as the son of a sushi chef. Growing up, he was never told to become a sushi chef, but he remembers how he naturally decided to follow his father’s path from a young age. He enrolled in a high school that had a culinary department, obtained a culinary degree as well as a puffer fish chef license.

After graduating, he moved to Tokyo to begin his formal apprenticeship. He spent the first two years at Ginza Sushi Aoki before joining Sushi Yoshitake, the top-rated sushi restaurant in Ginza, where he trained for five years. In 2017, he returned home to take over his father’s role as owner chef of Kurumasushi. He was 26 years old at the time.

Recognized for its superb quality, Kurumasushi received a major international award just a year after Takahira took over the restaurant. The restaurant has since lured many gourmands from outside the prefecture, seeking to savor Takahira’s delectable sushi.

VISION
Takahira has strong desires to become more involved and make a contribution to the sushi industry. His priority is to first run his restaurant well and demonstrate his ability in order to gain further recognition. He also believes that he can only run one restaurant at a time, and has no plans to open new branches. It’s important to him that he is located in his hometown in Ehime, and wants to cherish the bond he shares with local fishermen and craftsmen.

TABLEWARE

Takahira’s obsession with tableware began when he was in his mid-20s. He loves to travel to antique shops in Kanazawa and Kyoto and find unique pieces to add to his growing collection. He is particularly keen on antiques such as old Imari, Tokoname and Eiraku ware from 350 to 400 years ago. He also adores Chinese blue and white porcelain that dates back to the Ming Dynasty. Among contemporary works, he likes the Karatsu ware of Taki Nakazato, whose son is also a ceramics artist.