Niigata
Kyodai Sushi
兄弟寿し
Nestled in the historic Furumachi geisha district, Kyodai Sushi offers a culinary experience that captures the essence of the region. Returning home after a decade of training in Tokyo, second-generation chef Ryuji Homma curates an exquisite omakase course using local catches, establishing Niigata-mae sushi as its own distinctive style. Set in a stunning sukiya-style home, the meal here is stimulating to all the five senses.
Founded in 1960, Kyodai Sushi relocated to its current location on Nabechaya Street in 2023. The beautifully designed building echoes the elegance of a traditional teahouse, with a lantern bearing the restaurant’s name warmly illuminating the entrance. A narrow corridor leads to the main dining room, where a cypress counter takes center stage. Through the window, guests can admire a tranquil garden of maples and moss, which transforms into a breathtaking snowy landscape in winter.
Attention to detail elevates the dining experience, from the use of a natsume—a traditional tea ceremony container—for nikiri soy sauce, to the selected tableware, featuring Kyoto ware alongside pottery from Arita and Kutani. The sake sommelier curates a thoughtful selection of local brews, each chosen to complement the menu’s flavors.
CUISINE
The essence of the region
Kyodai Sushi’s omakase menu weaves together nigiri and dishes that embody the soul of Niigata-mae sushi. Reflecting his training at some of Tokyo’s top sushi establishments, Honma’s craftsmanship is refined but subtle, designed to bring out the natural flavor of each ingredient.
Nanban shrimp is a local delicacy, treasured for its rich sweetness. Served in the "Kyodai Sushi" style, the nigiri is made with three plump pieces of shrimp, presenting a perfect balance of sweetness and texture. The fatty piece of nodoguro, or blackthroat seaperch, is lightly seared and gently handed to guests to preserve its delicate texture.
The rice used for the nigiri is the local Emi no Kizuna from Myoko City. Its ability to absorb vinegar and retain moisture make it a perfect variety for sushi. The rice is prepared using ground water from Mt. Myoko and seasoned with a blend of rice vinegar from Iwafune Vinegar and sake koji from Taiyo Shuzo.
The delicious chutoro, sourced from Sado, is lightly marinated in soy sauce and squid paste to enhance its rich flavor. Megani, a female hairy crab, is delicately wrapped in seaweed, allowing its sweetness to come through.
Chawanmushi is a classic savory custard made with local aosa seaweed. The hidden pickled plum at the bottom of the bowl offers a pleasant surprise. Hirasuzuki, or blackfin seabass, is aged for three days to bring out its deep flavor. Baigai, or ivory whelk, is lightly seared and served on a skewer. Shirako, salt-grilled cod milt, is a simple dish yet so rich in flavor.
INGREDIENTS
Honma sources most of its seafood locally, often purchasing directly from fishermen in Sado, ensuring exceptional freshness and quality. While he takes pride in locally sourced fish, he remains flexible with tuna and sea urchin, acknowledging that many guests come specifically to enjoy these delicacies. The nikiri soy sauce is made from local Kotoyo soy sauce. The wasabi comes from Azumino in Nagano Prefecture.
CHEF
Ryuji Honma
In 2011, when his father fell ill, Honma returned to Niigata to take over the family restaurant. At the time, Kyodai Sushi was a neighborhood sushi joint, open from early evening until the early hours of the morning for local fans. Seeking to redefine its brand, he decided to offer a more exclusive, omakase-style menu that focused on high-quality produce of his home prefecture.
“Imitating (the sushi restaurants in) Tokyo is meaningless,” he would explain. “I felt I needed to create a sushi experience that is uniquely Niigata.”
True to his vision, he prioritized local ingredients—sourcing fish, rice, vinegar, and seasonings exclusively from the region. In July 2023, Kyodai Sushi relocated to a beautiful sukiya-style house along Nabechaya Street, preserving its name while ushering in a brand new chapter.
Outside the restaurant, Honma remains deeply connected to Niigata’s food culture. On his days off, he helps local rice farmers with their harvests and visits sake breweries. He also travels frequently to try sushi restaurants across Kyushu and in other prefectures for new inspirations.
VISION
Honma envisions staying grounded while promoting Niigata's culinary treasures. With an increasing number of guests from outside the prefecture and abroad, he hopes Kyodai Sushi will inspire them to explore the region further.
CALLIGRAPHY
The wall of the counter features "Ikkoshun,” a calligraphy piece by Yaichi Aizu, a renowned artist with ties to Niigata. The classic Chinese poem conveys the sentiment that "life is happy if you have a jar of sake." He fell in love with the piece at a gallery in Ginza and brought it back to the restaurant, where it now serves as a poetic backdrop to the dining experience.
For the restaurant’s name, Honma commissioned a calligraphy piece from Ryohei Miyata, a distinguished artist from Sado and former president of Tokyo University of the Arts. Miyata, also known for creating the Silver Bell at Tokyo Station, designed the characters with thoughtful intent. The elongated horizontal stroke in the letter, kotobuki (longevity), was inspired by the grandeur of the restaurant’s counter. It also symbolizes Honma’s strong commitment to preserving the legacy built by his father and uncle.
Course
- The price includes our booking fee of ￥8,000
- The price includes our booking fee of ￥8,000
Niigata
Kyodai Sushi
兄弟寿し
- GENRE
- Sushi, Niigata
- ADDRESS
-
1F, 8 Bancho-1427-2 Higashiboridori, Chuo Ward, Niigata, 951-8065, Japan
- OPEN
- 5:30PM- , 8:30PM-
- CLOSED
- Sunday
- URL
- NA
- PHONE
- NA
