Tokyo

Unagi Watabe

わたべ

Watabe has been a family endeavor for three generations. Located across Genkaku-ji Temple, what began as a local fish store in 1948 now stands as a sophisticated Kanto-style eel restaurant. Today, brothers Yukikazu and Yoshitaka Watabe carry on their grandfather’s legacy, preserving his unagi recipe while introducing new elements. Their signature unaju is glazed with a homemade sauce and delicately steamed over tea leaves. Subtle French influences in their menu add a unique touch to the traditional cuisine.

The origins of Watabe trace back to a neighborhood fish store specializing in river fish and shellfish. The founder was not only an excellent wholesaler but known for his delicious unagi that he would grill in front of the store, filling the street with the irresistible aroma. In 2004, the family decided to transform the family business into a high-end eel restaurant when a new building replaced the original property.

The restaurant is located in an old downtown district of Koishikawa, walking distance to two beautiful traditional gardens and Tokyo Dome. The interior offers an inviting ambiance, featuring both table seating and sunken tatami rooms. Carrying on the family tradition, they continue to sell homemade tsukudani, soy-simmered delicacies, at the entrance.

Thanks to the head chef Yukikazu’s background in French cuisine, the restaurant offers an excellent wine pairing menu, elevating the traditional flavors of unagi. They also offer an extensive selection of sake from across Japan.

The artistry of Kanto-style unagi

At Watabe, the artistry of Kanto-style unagi takes center stage. Each morning, only the finest eels are selected for the day’s meals. The fillets are first deboned and then steamed over roasted tea leaves—an elegant technique that refines their texture while tempering any lingering aroma. They are brushed with a rich Kanto-style sauce, a recipe that has been perfected over more than 70 years, before being returned to the grill for a final broil.

"We select thick, fatty eels, which makes precise deboning essential," the chef explains. "Steaming them with tea leaves removes any unwanted aroma while ensuring an exceptionally tender texture."

For purists, the shirayaki-style unagi brings out the eel’s natural richness. Served with a variety of condiments—fresh wasabi, artisanal salt, pepper, salted Japanese sansho peppercorns—each bite can be tailored to your preference. The classic uzaku dish pairs smoky grilled eel with crisp cucumber in a balanced marinade of vinegar, soy sauce and mirin.

For those in search of the ultimate experience, the tokujo (highest quality) unaju is an indulging choice, served with an entire premium eel. Meanwhile, the “Enma-ju”, a creation of the Watabe brothers, offers both shirayaki and kabayaki in a single box. Grilled without the sauce, the shirayaki is light with a delicate flavor. It is delicious on its own with just wasabi and salt, but it also pairs well with the pickled Japanese sansho peppercorns.

The unagi nikogori is a delicate jellied broth studded with generous portions of kabayaki eel. Served with a whisper of ginger and Japanese mustard, it is a dish that speaks to the power of exceptional ingredients.

The chef also introduces new elements to the traditional cuisine. The grilled eel and foie gras terrine is a beautiful fusion of Japanese and French influences, with a velvety sauce composed of port wine, Madeira and the restaurant’s signature eel glaze. Smoked eel with soft cheese is another signature dish made from a surprising combination of ingredients. Sautéed eel liver with egg yolk is full of rich umami.

To conclude, the homemade wasanbon ice cream arrives with an impeccably smooth texture, its delicate sweetness offering the perfect finish to an unforgettable meal.

INGREDIENTS
Watabe’s commitment to quality begins with the ingredients. The team carefully selects the finest, seasonal eels, sourcing from Isshiki in Aichi Prefecture, as well as from Miyazaki, Shizuoka and other select regions across Japan. For sashimi and other seafood, the restaurant partners with a long-established wholesaler in Toyosu.

The rice is Takomai rice from Chiba Prefecture—a light, less sticky variety chosen to complement the rich flavor of the eel. For seasoning, the chef favors Hida sansho peppercorns for their bright and aromatic flavor. The Maldon salt from England enhances the pure flavors of shirayaki and other grilled dishes.

CHEF

Yukikazu & Yoshitaka Watabe

At Watabe, tradition is deeply woven into the fabric of the family. Born just a year apart, Yukikazu and Yoshitaka Watabe grew up in the same building as the fish store their grandfather and father built. While their father never imposed expectations upon them, both brothers found their own paths before ultimately choosing to carry forward the family legacy.

The older brother, Yukikazu, first stepped into the culinary world while working part-time at Quintessence, a celebrated French restaurant in Tokyo. This early exposure led him to train at renowned establishments, including Otowa Restaurant in Utsunomiya and écurer in Nishi-Azabu, before venturing to France and Spain to learn more about European cuisines. During his stay in the Basque Country, he developed a deep appreciation for wood-fire grilling. Today, these influences inform his mastery of binchotan-grilled eel.

Meanwhile, Yoshitaka initially pursued a different path, studying education at university with aspirations of becoming a teacher. Also drawn to the hospitality industry, he trained as a bartender at the Tokyo Dome Hotel, where he learned the art of service before embarking on a two-year in Toronto to study language and culture. Upon returning to Japan, he and his brother made the pivotal decision to take on the family business. At Watabe, he seamlessly navigates both the kitchen and dining room, ensuring that the warmth of tradition is matched by impeccable hospitality.

While honoring the techniques passed down through generations, the Watabe brothers continue to refine and innovate. Yoshitaka has explored new methods of unagi preparation, while also embracing modern approaches. During the COVID-19 pandemic, he was quick to launch a food truck to sell unagi rice bowls, bringing Watabe’s legacy to the streets of Tokyo.

VISION
The Watabe brothers share a vision beyond their family’s legacy—they aspire to introduce the rich tradition of Kanto-style unagi to a global audience. “We want more people from overseas to experience the true depth of unagi,” they say. Whether through refined culinary techniques or international collaborations, the brothers are determined to bring the essence of Watabe to the world, one carefully grilled eel at a time.

TABLEWARE

Yukikazu’s passion for tableware is evident in every detail of the dining experience. Each piece, carefully curated from his personal collection, is chosen not just for function but for the way it enhances the presentation of the cuisine. He collects exceptional ceramics from renowned galleries such as nichi-nichi in Ginza and Kurashi no Utsuwa Hanada in Kudan.

The indigo sometsuke ware, a striking mix of late Edo-period and contemporary techniques, is reserved for sashimi and skewered delicacies. Among his favorite artisans are Shinpei Watanabe, celebrated for his sometsuke designs, and Jae-ho Choi, whose refined white porcelain embodies sophistication.

The signature unaju is served in a tiered lacquered box crafted by Aizu lacquer artist Yasutsugu Yamauchi. The design of the seasonal flowers is bold yet intricate, adding to the experience of enjoying the rich flavors of unagi that are packed within.