Tokyo

Sushi Meino

鮨　めい乃

In the traditionally male-dominated world of sushi, Sushi Meino stands as a remarkable exception. Led by Chef Mei Kougo and her team of female apprentices, the restaurant offers an exquisite Edomae-mae style sushi with an excellent wine pairing. With a particular affinity to aroma, she keeps her sushi seasoning light and balanced, helping bring out the natural flavors of the seasonal ingredients. Dedicated to crafting a warm and memorable dining experience, Sushi Meino is redefining tradition with a fresh perspective.

Opened in 2023, Sushi Meino arrived as a breath of fresh air in Tokyo’s competitive fine-dining scene. With the blessings of her mentors at renowned establishments like Sushi Sho, Nishiazabu Taku, and Sushi Arai, Kougo has risen to become one of the few female chefs leading her own sushi counter. While honoring traditional Edomae techniques, she continues to evolve her craft, incorporating subtle but innovative elements such as the use of herbs and spices.

Nestled in the residential neighborhood of Azabu Juban, Sushi Meino offers an intimate and inviting atmosphere. The cream-colored interior, shoji screens and light wood evoke a sense of home, while the warm yellow armchairs hold a personal significance for the chef, reminiscent of her childhood. A small terrace provides a stunning view of Tokyo Tower, adding to the restaurant’s tranquil ambiance.

The heart of Sushi Meino is its dedicated team, including Kougo’s mother, sister, and a close friend of 15 years. Kougo has also attracted a number of female apprentices, each aspiring to learn from their role model and challenge the barriers of a traditional industry.

Sushi Meino stands as a remarkable exception

Sushi Meino’s omakase unfolds in a careful sequence, beginning with six intricate small plates, followed by 13 pieces of Edomae-style nigiri. While her small plates showcase creativity and unexpected flavor pairings, her nigiri approach is more delicate, emphasizing the pure essence of the seafood.

A standout dish is her signature fresh spring roll, where akami and fatty tuna are wrapped in rice paper with citrus and herbs. The layers of flavor merge in a single exquisite bite, with hidden cashew nuts adding a textural contrast.

Stewed octopus is tender and deeply flavorful, simmered gently to preserve its natural sweetness. Meanwhile, vinegared gizzard shad, a classic Edomae topping, takes on an inventive twist—first deep-fried, then drizzled with homemade tartar sauce infused with pickled cucumber and ginger.

Kougo also presents “Ohagi,” a signature dish from Sushi Sho, which she perfected during her apprenticeship. Pressed together like the traditional rice sweet, this version features tuna, green onions, and pickled radish with vinegared rice. The conger eel, prepared in the signature style of Sushi Arai, is seared just before serving, releasing a rich aroma into the air.

The meal concludes with a dessert-like tamagoyaki prepared by Kougo’s sister, who used to work as a pastry chef. The dish is made of eggs, shrimp, and mountain yam, and flavored with seasonal ingredients such as kumquat and amaretto or lily root and vanilla.

INGREDIENTS
At the foundation of Kougo’s sushi is her favorite variety of rice: Shiga Asahi rice, a native Japanese grain she has championed for years. Before opening Sushi Meino, she spent time on the farm to study the ideal cooking method for sushi preparation. "Like native wine grapes, this rice has a strong vitality and a beautiful fragrance," she explains. Seasoned with a carefully blended mix of vinegars and salt, the rice forms the perfect base for her pristine seafood selection.

Kougo sources her seafood from top-quality suppliers across Japan—Hokkaido, Fukuoka, Ishikawa, Aichi, and Ehime. Ingredients shift with the seasons: sea urchin from Rebun Island in summer, blackthroat seaperch from Ishikawa in winter, and many other delicacies that highlight the best of each season.

The tuna, sourced from the renowned Yamayuki at Toyosu Market, is selected for its refined aroma as much as its richness. Unlike many Edomae sushi chefs, Kougo prefers serving her fish fresh rather than aged, emphasizing a vibrant, pure flavor.

CHEF

Mei Kougo

Born in Tokushima in 1989 and raised in Fukuoka, Kougo’s path to sushi was anything but conventional. While studying German literature at university, a conversation with her father sparked a curiosity about sushi craftsmanship. She began to see sushi as a uniquely Japanese art form with the potential for global recognition. This realization led her to enroll in the Tokyo Sushi Academy, setting her on a journey through some of Japan’s most prestigious sushi counters.

Beyond sushi, Kougo developed a deep appreciation for wine, earning her sommelier certification in 2016 before spending a year in France. She trained at wineries and helped launch Abyss, a restaurant by the acclaimed Yannick Alléno. Her time in France shaped her culinary perspective, inspiring her creative use of herbs and spices in sushi.

Upon returning to Japan, she became the second chef at Sushi Arai, where she spent two years overseeing the private counter before opening her own restaurant. Through Sushi Meino, Kougo is not only crafting world-class sushi but also fostering an environment where future generations of female chefs can gain the confidence to forge their own paths.

WINE

Kougo’s passion for wine is an integral part of the Sushi Meino experience. As guests enter the restaurant, they pass by an impressive cellar, stocked primarily with Burgundy and Champagne, each bottle selected to complement the nuances of her sushi.

"I like offering refreshing wines in early spring and richer wines in winter," she explains. "So the seasonal character of the wine naturally aligns with the fish."

In addition to wine, she curates a selection of premium sake from across Japan. Labels such as Shichi Hon Yari, Jikon and Tanaka Rokujugo are chosen for their elegant, aromatic profiles. Even glassware is carefully considered—Zalto stemware for wine, and Kimura Glass for sake—ensuring that every sip enhances the flavors of the cuisine.