At Sushidokoro Hitoshi, the omakase unfolds as a perfect sequence, where delicate nigiri and seasonal small plates are served in harmonious progression. The meal begins with lighter flavors such as white fish and squid and moves toward richer cuts of tuna. Sweet tamagoyaki and fragrant conger eel are served towards the end of the meal.

The sushi rice is seasoned with a blend of regular and black vinegars, subtly sweetened and salted to achieve depth without overpowering the fish. Preferring a softer texture, the chef ensures that each piece is served at a temperature close to body warmth.

His signature squid nigiri undergoes an intricate preparation. Its surface is scored with hidden knife cuts before being doused in boiling water and quickly chilled in ice. This technique creates a striking resemblance to rough ocean waves. The natural sweetness of the squid is heightened with yuzu, kabosu and a sprinkle of salt.

The radish sprouts nigiri is an expected highlight of the evening. Sourced directly from the market in Fukuoka, the fresh sprouts are salted, gently wrapped in kombu and left to develop their flavors over three days. The petit three-colored Sanshoku-don layers creamy sea urchin, salmon roe and slow-cooked kombu on a bed of warm rice.

Plump oysters are kneaded into mashed potatoes and fried until golden and crisp. Served with slices of bread, enjoy them as a flavor-packed sandwich. Takesue’s reverence for culinary heritage is evident in his recreation of So, an ancient Japanese dairy delicacy rarely seen in modern cuisine. Inspired by historical records, he set out to revive this forgotten dish, laboring for two hours to knead milk and other ingredients before letting it rest overnight in a wooden box. The dish is served with local lemons and oranges from Hiroshima.

Among the nigiri selections, the tuna—briefly marinated for 30 minutes—often surprises the guests, who inquire if it has been smoked. The squid, sourced from Nagasaki, carries its signature wave-like texture, while Hiroshima greens are pickled with mountain yam, plum, shiso, and sesame to provide a crisp contrast. The seared fatty tuna, lightly torched and served rare, is garnished with yuzu pepper, grated daikon and fresh green onions.

Mackerel from Jeju Island in Korea is treated with precision. The vinegared fillet is stuffed with pickled plum, ginger, sesame and kinome, while its surface is blanketed in delicate battera kombu, and garnished with scallions, chili and sesame seeds.

INGREDIENTS
Takesue’s dedication to sourcing the finest ingredients is evident in every course. The seafood arrives fresh from the Setouchi region, as well as Hakata in Fukuoka and his hometown of Tsushima in Nagasaki. The red sea urchin from Nagasaki is high-quality and fresh. Hiroshima’s conger eel is selected for its size and tenderness. Tuna is sourced from markets in Hiroshima, Osaka and Tokyo, depending on the season. The rice is a blend of aged grains from Hiroshima and Niigata, chosen for their depth of flavor and ideal texture. The black vinegar from Kagoshima has a delicate acidity without overpowering the flavor of the topping. Okinawan salt, known for its natural sweetness, adds balance to the vinegared rice.