The journey for sushi master Toshio Saito all began in Yamanashi, best known as the home of Mt. Fuji, and ironically one of Japan’s few landlocked prefectures. As the third son, Saito was unburdened by career expectations from his family. Free to choose whatever path he liked, he set off for Tokyo at the age of eighteen with no clear goals and no formal training in any field, and soon found himself working under a sushi master.

At first he didn’t like his job. He couldn’t see the fun in it and contemplated quitting every time he mastered breaking down another fish. But he stuck at it, and little by little developed a great respect for the talents of his master and a desire to constantly push to the next level. Not afraid of change, he travelled to New York serving up sushi to NOHO gourmands for more than six years. In search of something new again, he returned to Tokyo and was reunited with his former superior Keiji Nakazawa, and started working for the master at Sushisho in Yotsuya.

A sushi apprentice refers to the master as oyakata, which includes the characters for ‘parent’ and ‘the way’. This person is intended to be a father figure, guiding the way for his apprentice. You can see that is true in Saito’s relationship, as he talks fondly about how the people he worked with are like a family and how he learned so much from his oyakata about interacting with customers and true omotenashi. When the time came for Saito to go out on his own, Nakazawa was nothing but supportive, even introducing customers to Saito.

VISION When asked about his vision for the future, Saito selflessly talks about his hopes to nurture and mentor many future sushi chefs. He wants people to be inspired by his food into joining the profession. A proud smile spreads across his face as he talks of two apprentices who have already opened their own sushiya. He feels strongly that a sushi master cannot be born from a cooking school – you need to apprentice to a master to learn the art. Handling fish and holding a knife are far from the first steps. It starts with respect for your master, your ingredients, your customers and your space. You clean, observe, and communicate.

As for his own sushiya, Saito says he will carry on as he has done until now, adding touches and changes gaining inspiration as he dines out at restaurants of all cuisines. A current favorite is a local place where he goes for a fresh plate of oysters and a glass of sparkling or white wine to reflect on the day and relax. This is where he recharges for his next opportunity to entertain guests with their regular favorites as well as original and seasonal creations.

Reflecting on your meal and experience, that calligraphy painting that took your eye as you first went in seems to signify not only the ambience of the sushiya but also the chef’s character. Peaceful and pleasurable – Sushisho Saito is a truly enjoyable dining experience.