When Hideki Ishikawa greets you with his warm and welcoming smile, standing behind the counter preparing food with meticulous precision, you would never believe that as a young adult he was poor at conversation and had no interest in the culinary world. In fact, the eventual motivation to become a chef came from a false assumption that the chef can stay safely in the kitchen, shielded from conversations with guests.

After high school, Ishikawa joined a western tableware wholesaler in his home prefecture of Niigata, but his private relationship turned sour and he left to find something new. Sleeping on a friend’s couch in Tokyo, he spent two years picking up odd jobs, working at a café/bar. He moved into a three–tatami mat apartment with no bath and a shared toilet, and with very little money, dining out was a luxury he could never afford. On the road to nowhere in particular, he had to find a better way to live.

With permed hair and clad in the latest fashion, he knocked on the door at a popular Japanese restaurant in Harajuku. Turned away in an instant, he cleaned up his image, knocked again and was given a job. He worked wherever his new boss sent him, gaining experience with chefs at restaurants around Tokyo. He felt genuinely looked after despite the at times grueling training, and it was the years under the chef of Kamiya when the passion for cuisine took hold. He gave up everything to focus on cooking, immersing himself in Japanese culture through tea ceremony and ikebana and studying tableware, exposed to the best of the best through his master.

At the age of 35, Ishikawa was put in charge of the counter for the first time in his career. At Okazaki in Yaesu near Tokyo Station, he experienced for the first time the deep satisfaction in seeing customer responses first-hand, enjoying their reactions, learning from their hesitations, and making adjustments on the go.

Throughout all his trials, Ishikawa’s biggest lesson has been the importance of personal connections and treating people well. He certainly implements that now that he is in charge. The wellbeing and happiness of the people around him – be they staff or his guests – constitute his greatest goals. Ishikawa still calls himself a novice, but those around him very much see him as a leader. His sincere approach, drawing on all his experiences to arrive the unique flair seen in his cuisine, his desire to constantly evolve and progress, and his warmhearted character are an inspiration to all who meet him.

VISION
While Ishikawa wholeheartedly welcomes the idea of his cuisine being enjoyed the world over and is constantly looking to evolve, this does not imply a desire to expand overseas. As the executive chef of the Ishikawa group, which also includes the three-star Kohaku and two-star Ren, both in Kagurazaka, he likes to look at the big picture. He feels there is so much to be gained from working as a team, and his biggest goal is to serve as an inspiration to other young chefs, presenting them with opportunities to springboard into their own careers.