At the heart of Shinonome’s sushi is the vinegared rice, which uses a special blend of aged Nanatsuboshi and Yumepirika grains grown by his family in Higashikawa-cho. Nakahara carefully polishes the amount of rice he plans to use just for that day. The rice is cooked in a kamado, a traditional firewood oven, using spring water from Asahidake. “I cook the rice carefully so it has this satisfying texture as you chew,” he says.

Unlike a typical sushi course that starts with white fish, Nakahara first serves squid, his favorite topping. He also likes to serve stronger flavored dishes like sea urchin and tuna during the beginning of the meal. Soft-flavored fish are served towards the end. "Strong flavors are easier to savor when you're hungry, while milder flavors are easier to eat when you're full," he explains.

The monkfish liver appetizer shows off his craftsmanship. Served with a purée of Narazuke pickles and figs in a red vinegar sauce, the layers of flavors are simply magnificent.

What makes Nakahara’s sushi unique is how he interprets classic Edomae-style techniques to create his own unique approach. Bafun sea urchin is flavored using homemade kombu salt to bring out the natural umami. Wrapped in a crisp sheet of seaweed, the roll is passed from the chef’s hand to the guest’s.

Sumi-ika, or golden cuttlefish, is prepared by making deeper slits with a knife so it has a light texture. For Aori-ika, or bigfin reef squid, on the other hand, the slits are finer to create a sticky texture. Seasoned with salt and vinegar, gizzard shad is glistening and shiny.

Daisuke is a special brand of king salmon from Rausu. To balance the rich flavor, Nakahara hides some shallot with the wasabi between the fish and the rice. The surprising combination is delicious. The pickled ginger, served on the side, is cut into small bits not slices.

The tuna of the day comes from a 140-kg fish caught off the coast of Shiogama in Miyagi Prefecture. The akami is clean with a great aroma. The fatty toro is sweet and rich, melting away in your mouth.

INGREDIENTS
Nakahara likes to source high quality produce not only from Hokkaido but froml across Japan. He uses fish brokers and also buys directly from the Toyosu market. He prefers tuna that is moist with a good aroma, and packed with umami. The rice is a blend of aged Nanatsuboshi and Yumepirika rice grown by his family in their hometown. The vinegar is a blend of Fuji Vinegar Premium, Fuji Vinegar and a 15-year-old red vinegar from Iio Brewery in Kyoto. The Mitsuru Kinari soy sauce is made in Itoshima. Fresh wasabi comes from Azumi.