Torioka is built on the idea of bringing back a traditional yakitori stall to modern dining. The latest addition to the famous Torishiki restaurant group, gourmands are flocking to Azabudai Hills to get a flavor of their charcoal-grilled cuisine. Melding the old and the new, Chef Takanori Oohira promises an enchanting evening with his refined craftsmanship and warm hospitality.

Torioka, which takes a character from the Japanese word for hills, joins an array of top-level restaurants inside the new Azabudai complex. The restaurant is hidden away behind the grocery section of the shopping mall that showcases the best produce from across Japan. As you walk through rows of boxed fruits and marbled wagyu beef, you will find a secret door to Torioka, which you could easily miss if you weren’t looking for it.

Once you step inside, you'll enter a different world. The calm air in the softly-lit space is a contrast to the bustling arcades outside. The large copper plate that hangs over the counter like an art installation is reminiscent of an old food stall. Oohira stands behind the charcoal grill, warmly welcoming the guests. With only 8 seats at the counter, reservations are hard to secure.

Overseen by Yoshiteru Ikegawa of award-winning Torishiki, the yakitori here is grilled to perfection. Skewers of free-range Date chicken are cooked close over scorching charcoal, sealing in the tasty juice. The seasonal dishes are intricate and creative, showing Oohira’s mastery in traditional Japanese cuisine.

Like its sister restaurants, the skewers are served on a collection of crockery made by Koutoku Yano of Shiki Kado pottery studio in Setagaya. The subtle fragrance of Shoyeido incense fills the air.