Tokyo

Torikaze

鳥かぜ

Open to guests by referral only, Torikaze is a hidden gem for yakitori-lovers who want to indulge in an elegant fine-dining experience. Curated by Yoshiteru Ikegawa, the owner chef of top-rated Torishiki, the restaurant offers delicious yakitori, fragrant sake and delightful hospitality. As if performing on a stage, the chef stands in front of the grill at the center of the room, cooking the skewers on a high open flame to seal in the flavor. Here, yakitori is a form of art that appeals to all your senses.

Torikaze is among the most exclusive of the renowned yakitori restaurants run by Yoshiteru Ikegawa. Headed by former Torishiki chef, Masahiro Himeno, Torikaze’s cuisine is of top quality, using the same techniques and ingredients as the flagship restaurant. Choosing the Japanese character for wind, Ikegawa named Torikaze with the hope to redefine the world of yakitori. The group’s restaurant in Shanghai also bears the same name.

Away from the busy roads, Torikaze is tucked away in a lovely neighborhood of Naka-Meguro along the Meguro River. As you walk down to the basement, a dark corridor leads you to a lattice door to the dining room. As if you’ve stepped into a small theater, a large noren curtain drapes behind the open grill where the chef performs his craft. Guests are invited to take a seat at the surrounding counter to watch him from every direction.

As a warm welcome, a magnificent decor of seasonal flowers hangs from the ceiling. The collection of fine tableware is made by Koutoku Yano of a local Shiki Kado pottery studio. The plates are simple, yet high quality, designed to make the yakitori stand out. The small details add up to create a refined and exquisite atmosphere.

Open to guests by referral only

Using free-range Date chicken and seasonal vegetables, Torikaze’s dishes are dynamic in idea and full of rich flavors. The omakase menu is made up of about 17 courses, of which 11 are skewers that are grilled right in front of your eyes. Each yakitori varies in texture and temperature, so you won't get tired of the meal as you move from one dish to the next.

A light salad of chicken breast and grilled spring vegetables is dressed with honey mustard sauce. Cooked slowly at a low temperature, the chicken is moist and tender. Tossed with young corn, broad beans and Kadaif noodles, the salad has a wonderful mix of textures.

Chicken wings with salsa sauce is an untraditional take for a yakitori restaurant. The spicy salsa adds a refreshing change in flavor. A kinkan egg yolk on rice is gently wrapped in seaweed and handed immediately to the guest’s hand. Enjoy the sweet, creamy egg in one big bite.

Inheriting the techniques of award-winning Torishiki, the skewers are grilled up close using a strong flame. Grilling the surface of the meat quickly at a high temperature seals in the rich umami, the chef explains. The sweet smell of the dripping fat fills the air.

Liver is vibrant in flavor and moist on the tongue thanks to its freshness. Kashiwa, or thigh, is crunchy on the outside and juicy on the inside. Dakimi, breast meat wrapped in chicken skin, offers a satisfying bite. The shoulder is an unusual ingredient for yakitori but guests instantly become hooked on the unique texture.

Next to the grill is a row of little pots, each filled with condiments like chicken fat, dashi and oils that the chef uses to baste and flavor the meat. At Torikaze, they also use some French Echire butter for grilled vegetables such as new potatoes and mushrooms.

INGREDIENTS
All Torishiki restaurants use a selected brand of free-range Date chicken. The chickens are raised in an ideal and open environment. The meat is shipped directly from the farm to the restaurants. Grilled carefully over hot charcoal, the meat is tender and full of flavor.

CHEF

Masahiro Himeno

Masahiro Himeno was born in Osaka Prefecture in 1976. His career began far removed from the world of yakitori. He first began working for a local clothing store before moving to Tokyo where he worked at a nightclub in Ginza. Throughout these earlier experiences, he discovered his passion to work face to face with people.

Around that time, he came across an article about Ikegawa and became fascinated with his life story. At age 42, Himeno decided he wanted to be a yakitori chef himself and began training at Torishiki. The apprenticeship at the flagship restaurant was tough but rewarding in many ways, he recalls. Recognized for his efforts, he was chosen as head chef of Torikaze in 2022. "I’m here because people around me helped me," the chef says.

VISION
“Yakitori is a cuisine that many people from all over the world can enjoy,” Himeno says. “By visiting our restaurant, I want people to discover the draw of yakitori. Please enjoy the culture of Japan with your five senses.”

SAKE

You can’t go home without trying our original sake, the chef insists. Hinotori Torishiki x Aramasa is an original sake vintage brewed by Aramasa Sake Brewery in Akita Prefecture. In addition to the typical method of wood-barrel fermentation, a portion of the finished sake is stored in a smaller barrel to enhance the note of the cedar. Made specifically to pair with yakitori, the sake is fragrant and rich in flavor.

The restaurant also offers a selection of top-rated champagnes and wines including Louis Roederer Cristal, Michel Niellon Chevalier Montrachet and Gladstone Urlar Pinot Noir. Be sure to try various pairings.