Tokyo

Toritsuki

Name: Dinner @ Toritsuki on November 01, 2024
Start: 2024-11-01
Location: Toritsuki

鳥つき

In an extensive 21-course menu, the omakase at Toritsuki is a feast of bite-sized yakitori and seasonal dishes. A part of the restaurant group owned by Yoshiteru Ikegawa, Toritsuki stands out for its unique menu that incorporates elements from world cuisines. Using the same free-range Date chicken as award-winning Torishiki, the skewers are tender and full of umami. Make sure to come hungry to enjoy the meal from start to finish.

Located on a quiet backstreet in Ebisu Station, Toritsuki is hidden away on the second floor of a building with no signs outside. The narrow staircase leads you to the entrance, which it shares with the sister restaurant Toriyoshi. The dining room has an elegant atmosphere, set with soft spotlights and a white shiraki wood counter that hugs around the open grill. With only 10 seats around the counter, guests enjoy the action up close.

Standing behind the grill, the owner chef Tatsuya Nagaoka begins preparing the meal. Made up of smaller skewers and dishes, the 21-course menu was born out of his desire to treat the guests with as many delicious foods as possible. As he briskly fans the skewers sizzling over crackling charcoal, the sweet and smoky aroma fills the air.

Overseen by Yoshiteru Ikegawa, the owner chef of Torishiki, the group restaurants share his refined technique as well as top-quality ingredients but each operate under different concepts. Three of them take a letter from a Japanese proverb, "Flower, bird, wind, moon,” that calls us to connect with nature. Toriyaki Ohana includes the letter for flower, Torikaze the wind and Toritsuki the moon. Devoted to perfecting the craft of yakitori, Ikegawa’s restaurants promise a satisfying experience.

A feast of bite-sized yakitori and seasonal dishes

When Ikegawa and Nagaoka began talking about the concept for Toritsuki, they were interested in serving yakitori like a sushi restaurant that alternates between nigiri and small plates. They wanted to create a dynamic menu that was different to a typical yakitori restaurant. The result was a 21-item omakase course of small yakitori and bite-size dishes.

“Chicken is used in so many cuisines around the world. The potential is endless,” he says. “I want to serve a ‘borderless’ menu by using different techniques from other cuisines.”

Spring cabbage and asparagus soup brings together flavors of the season. The chicken meat is soft and tender while the broth adds the sweetness of the vegetables. Strawberries, apples and Setoka oranges are tossed in cream cheese sauce for a refreshing cold appetizer.

The chicken cutlet sandwich is delicious and satisfying. Made with Shingen chicken that was marinated in yakitori sauce, the meat is deep fried in crispy batter. The sauce is a light egg-based sauce made with lemon juice. On the side are pieces of butter and sugar rusks. A bowl of taco rice is packed with flavor. Chicken thighs and other seasonal vegetables are covered with chopped tomatoes and melted cheese.

Inheriting the techniques of award-winning Torishiki, the skewers are grilled up close using a strong flame. Charred on the outside and moist on the inside, the grill adds a rich aroma to the ingredients. The first yakitori is kashiwa, or thigh. The juicy meat is full of umami with a satisfying texture. Tsukune meatballs are made of coarsely-ground thighs, breasts and cartilage.

INGREDIENTS
All of the Torishiki restaurants use free range Date chicken that Ikegawa directly sources for the group. Raised in an open and low-stress environment, the free-range chickens have high-quality fat and rich flavor. Koshihikari rice comes from a farm in Toyama Prefecture. Seasonal vegetables are selected by a vendor in Kanagawa Prefecture.

CHEF

Tatsuya Nagaoka

Tatsuya Nagaoka was born in Saitama Prefecture in 1991. He used to love watching the yakitori chef at a nearby restaurant that he grew up wanting to become one when he grew up. He went on to study at a culinary school and began training at a restaurant in a local hotel. He went to work at yakitori restaurants in Saitama and Akabane where he later took on the role of a manager. He joined Ikegawa’s group in 2016 and trained under the chef of Toriyoshi. He was named the head of Toritsuki when the restaurant opened in March 2023.

On his days off, he goes out to eat at different restaurants, always on the search for inspiration. He tries all kinds of cuisines to incorporate new ideas to his eclectic menu.

VISION
Nagaoka says his vision is to continue improving Toritsuki. The Saitama-born chef says he plans to eventually return to his hometown to open his own yakitori restaurant.

TABLEWARE

The timeless tableware is made by Koutoku Yano of Shiki Kado pottery studio in Setagaya. Designed specifically to make the yakitori stand out, the round serving plates were inspired by the character for moon in the restaurant’s name. The pieces look flat at first glance but are slightly curved in the middle to stop the sauce from spilling. The sauce dispensers and skewer holders on the table are also Yano’s work.